Exploring the Living Heritage of Siheyuan Courtyard Homes with Elaine and a Penguin Plushie
If you ever find yourself wandering down the narrow, winding alleyways of Beijing (北京 Běijīng), you might just stumble upon a secret hidden behind gray brick walls and red-painted gates—a traditional Hutong (胡同 hú tòng) and its heart, the Siheyuan (四合院 sì hé yuàn).
Our visit to one such charming courtyard in the heart of Nanguanfang Hutong (南官房胡同 Nánguānfáng Hútòng), Xicheng District (西城区 Xīchéng Qū), turned into a living history lesson for my daughter Elaine. Armed with her penguin plushie and a curious spirit, she stepped into a world far removed from modern skyscrapers, where stories are told not with words, but with wooden beams and tiled roofs. If you’re planning your next trip to Beijing China, this hidden gem deserves a spot on your list.
What Exactly is a Hutong?
The word “Hutong (胡同 hú tòng)” originally came from the Mongolian term “hottog”, meaning “water well.” In Chinese culture, it evolved to describe the narrow lanes or alleyways that thread through old neighborhoods in Beijing, especially those formed between rows of Siheyuan (四合院).
These alleyways are more than just passageways; they are a window into traditional Chinese urban life that dates back over 700 years. First laid out during the Yuan Dynasty (元朝 Yuáncháo, 1271–1368), Hutongs expanded throughout the Ming Dynasty (明朝 Míngcháo, 1368–1644) and Qing Dynasty (清朝 Qīngcháo, 1644–1912), creating a cityscape of humble charm and architectural harmony. Anyone curious about China history and culture will find these alleyways deeply enriching.
The Siheyuan: Beijing’s Timeless Courtyard Home
At the heart of most Hutongs lies the Siheyuan (四合院), a traditional courtyard residence where generations of families lived together. The term “Siheyuan” literally means “four-sided enclosed courtyard.” It’s not just a home—it’s a microcosm of Chinese philosophy and family values.
The standard layout includes:
- A main house (正房 zhèng fáng) on the north, facing south for optimal sunlight
- Two side houses (厢房 xiāng fáng) on the east and west for other family members
- A south house (倒座房 dào zuò fáng) or front building, often for servants or storage
- A central courtyard (院子 yuànzi) serving as the heart of family life
This arrangement reflects feng shui (风水 fēng shuǐ) principles and embodies Confucian ideals of hierarchy, balance, and harmony. If you’re looking to understand how life in Beijing China used to be, there’s no better model than the Siheyuan.
Elaine immediately noticed how symmetrical everything felt. “It’s like the house is hugging the garden!” she said, which made perfect sense. In many ways, that’s exactly what a Siheyuan does—it holds its residents in a warm architectural embrace.
Feng Shui, Functionality, and Family
The design of Siheyuan homes wasn’t just for aesthetics. It followed the ancient Chinese cosmological model: the north-facing building symbolizes protection, while the south-facing orientation welcomes warmth and energy.
Family hierarchy played a significant role:
- The eldest or most respected members stayed in the main house (正房)
- Younger generations lived in the side wings (厢房)
- Gender roles were often reflected in which parts of the courtyard were occupied
These roles were reinforced through physical space, teaching discipline and respect from a young age.
Elaine and I talked about how different this was from our own home. “Do kids here have their own rooms?” she asked. Not really—privacy wasn’t as emphasized. Life revolved around the communal courtyard (院子), a place for playing, working, celebrating, and sometimes grieving together.
Inside the Siheyuan: A Step Back in Time
Walking into the residence at No. 39 Nanguanfang Hutong (南官房胡同39号), we were greeted by a red-and-gold signboard inviting visitors to witness old Beijing’s lifestyle. The English translation was delightfully poetic:
“Take a photo under the canopy, beside the white marble fishbowl… experience the ancient local Beijing people’s harmonious life.”
We couldn’t resist. Under a wooden trellis adorned with hanging grapes and radishes (plastic, but charming), Elaine and I snapped a selfie. Behind us, a wooden birdcage swung gently in the breeze, and a handwritten sign sweetly declared: “I am waiting for you in the Siheyuan (我在四合院等你 wǒ zài sì hé yuàn děng nǐ).”
Inside, we explored:
- A display of Qing-style furniture (清式家具 Qīngshì jiājù), complete with carved wooden shelves and delicate porcelain
- An old-fashioned bridal bed (龙凤喜床 lóng fèng xǐ chuáng), swathed in red silk and topped with lucky symbols like peonies and double happiness motifs
- A simple kitchen (厨房 chú fáng) setup with antique tools, reminding us how much has changed (or not!) in home cooking
Elaine particularly loved the bed. “It looks like a princess bed but with dragons!”
Life in a Courtyard: More Than Just a House
In the past, a courtyard house held more than just people. It housed generations of stories (家族故事 jiāzú gùshì):
- Children learning calligraphy (书法 shū fǎ) under a tree
- Weddings (婚礼 hūn lǐ) adorned with red lanterns and loud firecrackers
- Grandparents sipping tea (茶 chá) while gossiping with neighbors
There were hardships too. In the winter, heating was difficult. In times of political change, families came and went, and homes were divided into multiple cramped apartments. Many Siheyuan fell into disrepair during the 20th century.
Today, some have been restored as cultural sites (文化遗产 wénhuà yíchǎn), boutique hotels, or even luxury residences. But many still serve as lived-in homes, stubbornly resisting the encroachment of modernity. These homes offer a rare glimpse into Beijing China history and daily life that has all but vanished.
The Disappearing Beauty of Hutongs
According to local sources, there are only a few thousand traditional courtyard homes left in Beijing. Once numbering over 3,000 distinct Hutongs, the city has seen many bulldozed in favor of urban development.
What remains, however, are being fiercely protected by cultural historians, residents, and lovers of old Beijing. Areas like Shichahai (什刹海 Shíchàhǎi), Nanluoguxiang (南锣鼓巷 Nánluógǔxiàng), and Dashilar (大栅栏 Dàshílàn) have become cultural tourism spots, but still retain authentic flavors of the past. These neighborhoods are now among the top 10 places to visit in Beijing China for those seeking authenticity.
In fact, we spoke to an older resident who smiled at Elaine’s penguin plushie and said, “She reminds me of my granddaughter. They used to play in this courtyard too, years ago.”
A Hands-On History Lesson for Elaine
This wasn’t just a trip for sightseeing. It was part of Elaine’s ongoing experiential learning journey (体验式学习 tǐyàn shì xuéxí), and the Siheyuan gave her real insight into:
- Traditional Chinese family structures
- Architectural adaptation to climate and values
- The contrast between modern and ancient city living
She even sketched the courtyard when we got home and added a red lantern and birdcage in her drawing, saying, “I want my future house to have a tree in the middle.”
That’s the beauty of travel with children—you plant seeds of curiosity.
Tips for Visiting a Siheyuan
- Address: No. 39 Nanguanfang Hutong (南官房胡同39号), Xicheng District (西城区), Beijing (北京) 100009
- Metro Access: Shichahai Station (什刹海站 Shíchàhǎi Zhàn), Line 8 (地铁8号线)
- Best Time to Visit: Autumn (秋天 qiūtiān) – pleasant weather, golden light, fewer crowds
- Bring: A sketchbook, curiosity, and your camera
- Respect: This is still a lived-in area for many families, so be mindful when walking through Hutongs
Final Reflections: Architecture as Living Memory
Standing in the center of that ancient courtyard, surrounded by whispers of old Beijing, I realized something profound:
Architecture is memory made solid.
The Siheyuan is not just a building. It’s a testimony to a way of life that prioritized harmony over haste, family over individualism, and beauty over efficiency.
Elaine looked up and said, “It’s like the house is telling us a story.”
Yes, it is. And it’s one worth listening to, preserving, and sharing. If you’re looking for Beijing China tourist attractions that connect the past with the present, a visit to the Hutongs and Siheyuan is an unforgettable experience.
This article is part of the China Travel Bug series documenting educational, family-friendly travel across China. Follow us as we uncover more hidden stories..
