Returning to a city where you once lived is very different from visiting it for the first time. One former Beijing resident is returning after more than a decade—this time with children aged 3 and 5. She doesn’t need help with Mandarin. She wants to know what has changed for visitors since 2014, what now needs advance booking, and where she can introduce her children to the Beijing breakfasts, noodles, dumplings and hutong...



