
Section 1 — One Hangs From a Cliff. The Other Has Stood in Wood for Nearly 1,000 Years. After Yungang Grottoes introduced Elaine and me to the Northern Wei and the Xianbei world of northern China, we continued through northern Shanxi...

Section 1 — One Hangs From a Cliff. The Other Has Stood in Wood for Nearly 1,000 Years. After Yungang Grottoes introduced Elaine and me to the Northern Wei and the Xianbei world of northern China, we continued through northern Shanxi...

Section 1 — Beyond the Great Wall: When the People From the Northern Frontier Became the Rulers At Yanmenguan (雁门关), Elaine and I stood on China’s northern frontier and asked why Chinese states and dynasties kept building walls. Then, farther north...
Section 1 — We Came for the Ancient City. The Bigger Rabbit Hole Was Money. Pingyao (平遥) is one of China’s best-preserved historic cities and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Elaine and I went for the ancient walls, streets and courtyards....
Section 1 — One Temple Outside Taiyuan Opens the Door to the State of Jin Just outside Taiyuan, Elaine and I visited Jinci (晋祠) expecting an important historical temple complex. Instead, it opened another enormous Chinese-history rabbit hole: the story of...
Section 1 — Before You Explore Shanxi, Start in Taiyuan Shanxi is one of those Chinese provinces where history seems to be hiding everywhere. Elaine and I came for places such as Pingyao, Yanmenguan, Yungang, the Hanging Temple and Wutai Shan....
Section 1 — From the Zhou Homeland to the Last Campaign of Zhuge Liang Stay a few days in Baoji and you can travel through more than a thousand years of Chinese history without going very far. One day, Elaine and...
Section 1 — The Dynasty That Makes the Rest of Ancient China Easier to Understand If Qin Shi Huang is your starting point for ancient China, the Zhou dynasty is probably the next dynasty you should understand. Because once Zhou makes...
Section 1 — Two Characters Every Traveler in China Knows Walk into a museum in Baoji and you can encounter a bronze vessel made more than 3,000 years ago. Inside its inscription are two characters that every traveler in China sees...
Section 1 — Leave the Museum and Walk Into the Zhou Landscape In Baoji, Elaine and I encountered the Zhou dynasty through ancient bronzes. Then we went farther — to Qishan and Zhouyuan, visited the Temple of the Duke of Zhou...
Section 1 — What Came Before Qin? Most international travelers come to Xi’an to meet Qin Shi Huang and his Terracotta Warriors. Elaine and I traveled farther west to Baoji — and discovered that one of the best ways to understand...
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