Take the high-speed train south from Beijing and, before climbing Mount Tai or meeting Confucius in Qufu, stop in Jinan — a city where natural springs flow through the old town, streets lead toward lakes and markets, and one of China’s major provincial museums gives you the perfect introduction to Shandong’s much deeper history. When Elaine and I traveled south from Beijing into Shandong, we didn’t go straight to Mount Tai. Our...